Popular Indian styles of Embroidery

Phulkari Embroidery
The traditional Punjabi embroidery art is phulkari. The pulkari word means growing flowers. This embroidery form, true to its name includes only floral motifs in bright colors. There is sanctity to the art form as the canopy over Guru Granth Sahib; the religious book of the Sikhs is of phulkari.

The phulkari with very intricate floral patterns is called Bagh that means garden. It is primarily used on the odhanis and dupattas. It is considered auspicious for the bride and for the new born. It is worn on ceremonies. Phulkari for some time now is being used in home furnishings specially wall hangings, sofa throws and other soft furnishings.

History of Phulkari
The origin of Phulkari can not exactly be traced. Reference of Punjabi embroidery though goes back to 2000 years back to the Vedic ages. The poet Waris Shah has mentioned Phulkari in the famous tale of Heer-Ranjha. Its present form and popularity goes back to 15th century, during the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh.

Phulkari was not meant for sale at that time. The ladies used to make these for personal use. It was included in the bridal trousseau. It was considered auspicious. There is a different Phulkari for every occasion. The art was learnt by the daughter from her mother just as she learnt other chores.

Process
Phulkari is traditionally done on a handspun khadi cloth with simple darning stitches using the un-spun silk floss yarn called pat. Single strand threads are used for the purpose. The simple stitches in the adept hands make it one of the most sought after embroidery craft. The use of horizontal, vertical or diagonal stitches apart shading and variation to the design.

There are a variety of Phulkari styles used for different occasions and purposes.

The Chope, a red colored cloth with embroidered borders, is presented to the bride by her grandmother during a ceremony before the wedding.

Vari-da-bagh (bagh of the trousseau) is also on a red cloth with golden yellow embroidery symbolizing happiness and fertility. The entire cloth is covered with patterns of smaller flowers within the border and is intricately worked in different colors.

Ghunghat bagh or sari-pallau (covering for the head) has a small border on all four sides. In the center of each side, which covers the head, a large triangular motif is embroidered.

Bawan bagh (fifty-two in Punjabi) has as many geometrical patterns.

Darshan dwar (the gate offering a view of the deity) is usually for presentation in temples or to adorn the walls of the home when the Guru Granth Sahib (holy book of the Sikhs) is brought to a house. The theme is a decorative gate.

Suber is a phulkari worn by a bride during marriage rites. It comprises of five motifs, one in the center and one in each of the four corners.

Chamba is a hybrid Phulkari having a series of wavy creepers, stylized leaves and flowers.

Besides this, designs inspired by various day to day items, fauna and flora like sunflowers, peacock, red chilies, ace of diamonds and so on are also used.